Kvarner Wines

Anton Katunar's family is one of those that can boast a long tradition of viticulture, which began to take on serious business dimensions in the early 1990s. Namely, it was then that they combined the latest viticulture practices and technologies with all the best aspects of traditional viticulture on the islands of Krk and Vrbnik.

They were the first to produce Croatian sparkling wine (frizzante) Biser mora and sparkling wine Porin. Since then, they have successfully combined tradition and innovation.

Vrbnik is a small town on the island of Krk whose hinterland, namely the Vrbničko polje, is the largest source of the žlahtina variety, but Estate Winery Katunar has gone a step further in a creative, but also literal sense, and has expanded its plantings to the Bašćanska kotlina locality in the southern part of the island, and it is from there that their much-praised and awarded žlahtina Sv. Lucija comes! But they didn't stop there either, because Anton Katunar's family also produces žlahtina from amphorae, and in locations near Baška they have, which is very interesting, the northernmost planted Plavac Mali.

1. How do you view the history of winemaking and viticulture in Kvarner from today's perspective?

Naša tradicija vinarstva toliko je bogata da seže do antičkih vremena, potom kroz cijeli srednji vijek da bi svoje zapaženo povijesno mjesto zauzela krajem 19. i početkom 20. stoljeća – kada je naš kraj bio glavno 'primorje' srednjoeuropske konglomeracije. Tada je Kvarner bila vrhunska turistička destinacija za elitu europskih metropola poput Praga, Budimpešte i Beča. Gastro i eno ponuda pratile su taj status, što se može vidjeti po vinskim kartama koje su se održale do 1930- ih godina. Dobro dokumentiran i sačuvan primjer je Hotel Vitezić u Baški koji 1920-ih godina na vinskoj krti ima u ponudi 3 žlahtine rangirane po godištima, 3 lokalna pjenušca, 3 lokalne crne etikete i 4 prošeka rangirana po godinama odležavanja. Uz tu zavidnu ponudu s vinske karte, on svojim prijeratnim gostima nudi i tenis, Nivea kozmetiku i seoski turizam – organiziranu berbu grožđa. Therefore, today's view of such history awakens mixed feelings of pride, regret over the insufficient use of such potential, but also hope for its flourishing.

2. How did you decide to plant vineyards in the location of Sveta Lucija or Šupele?

The Sveta Lucija location is an excellent wine-growing location, with a southeast orientation, a slope of up to 30 % and a maximum elevation of 140 meters. The vines are planted on it in an extra-dense 160 x 80 grid arrangement, which is not intended to obtain quantity, but to maximize quality. This location gives all wines, especially Žlahtina, high sugars, extracts and structure. An additional factor is the history of the location, which was cultivated in antiquity as part of the Villa Rustica complex, on whose ruins the church of St. Lucia with a monastery was built. The monks of that monastery continued to grow vines, which they immortalized by using them to decorate the Bašćanska ploča, a key Glagolitic document found in that church.

3. In addition to Žlahtina, you also have a variety planted on St. Lucia that no one would expect there.

In addition to Žlahtina, the Sv. Lucija location also grows indigenous local red varieties, as well as the favorite national red variety – Plavac Mali – which is the northernmost plantation of this variety. It is precisely on this typically southern variety that this microlocation shows its potential.

4. How did you come up with the idea of testing Žlahtina in an amphora and how would you describe this wine to someone who wants to taste it?

Primarily because of my own interest in the old way of vinification, and because of a kind of 'return to the roots'. Grapes from these locations were already vinified in amphorae, albeit 1800 years ago. Our Žlahtina vinified in amphorae is a dense, warm, demanding amber-colored wine dominated by intense aromas of Mediterranean herbs and dried fruit.

5. Is there potential for aging Žlahtina?

Žlahtina is certainly a grateful variety for macerations, as well as for aging, due to its durable skin, intensity of flavor and higher alcohol content if it is in the appropriate positions, and due to its delicate tannins and acids, which are easily balanced in the wine.

6. Your newly renovated tasting room also has a very interesting addition – the Frankopan room. What is it?

That's right, this is our Frankopan corner – a lookout overlooking the former Frankopan estates, decorated in the style of that princely house and equipped with educational materials. It is inspired by the importance of the Frankopans in this region and is a great continuation of the county project "Frankopan Paths", which presents and promotes this very significant and rich regional heritage. In cooperation with "Frankopan Paths", we also offer several labels - Frankopan Wine, of which 2 wines, Festivum and Prošek, are vinified in almost the same way as it was done in the Frankopan era. The wines are macerated and made without the use of sulfur or modern additives.